This past weekend we embarked on a true Northern Thailand adventure. We thought we had Monday off from work, for the King’s Birthday. Turns out Hangchat Wittaya chose to observe the holiday the following Friday, to create a more extended weekend for themselves. Did they inform us of this change more than 4 days before? No. Tough cookies. We’re skipping school and going to Chiang Rai.
The trip is best explained through pictures and this handy video I made, but here are some highlights:
Elephant trekking . . .Yes that’s right. We rode on elephants yet again! I’m becoming more comfortable on an elephant than in a car! Also, I was on an elephant with Jessie and our mahout basically forced her to ride on the neck for two reasons (we think). 1. So that he could get a good grasp on her behind when he pushed her up there. 2. So that he could go on an elephant riding first date with me, during which he liked to touch my knee (but then would get nervous and take his hand off). Also during our elephant trek, our mahout and Walter and Witska’s mahout made an interesting sort of discovery. They found something on the ground then started laughing and counting it. I think drugs. Not sure.
Hiking . . .Holy Toledo, I will never be a hiker. But I tried my best, and that’s all that matters (that’s what I tell the students, after all). On the second day, it was a pretty grueling uphill hike for a good 45 minutes. It was a near death experience, I’d say, and I had to force the group to take a couple of extra breaks at my expense. Holy lung capacity. Plus I’m clumsy to begin with. I trip over things in my bedroom. Throw in some roots, thorns, rocks, and a narrow mountain path and you’ve got yourself a train wreck. As Erin said, “I can’t walk behind you because with each step, I feel like I’m watching your death.” But in the words of the old civil rights activists, “We Shall Overcome.” Our trek leader was an elderly Akha man who wore flip flops (on the first day, at least) and carried bags of bread and food in his hands. He carved us some awesome bamboo walking sticks. He was never out of breath and never broke a sweat. He’s probably been hiking that path since the womb.
Akha Village . . . Really amazing! They had some electricity (on porches and in bathrooms, not in bedrooms,) but it was still a very primitive village of about 200 people. Most villagers can’t even speak or understand Thai, and only speak their Akha language. The older women in traditional gear loved selling their wares. Those hats can weigh up to 8 pounds! Some of the most interesting customs include the fact that the women and men live separately, and the men can have multiple wives (maybe 5?) Also, twins and flowers are taboo subjects (we read that on the sign, not so sure of the reasoning on the flowers). I bought a bracelet and got a free blessing with it, hopefully not for a baby like Witska got. We had some delicious food cooked by Pooh and some of the village women, green curry chicken and Thai spaghetti sauce with pork over rice, and the freshest pineapple I’ve ever eaten! We even got to take part in an Akha Welcome Dance around the fire, joining hands and dancing (Walter was not a fan, and Erin struggled to keep him in line). We ‘slept’ in the village overnight, as much as we could with crowing roosters inches from our heads, before finishing our hike on Sunday.
Chiang Rai is in the far north of Thailand, very near the Burmese and Laotian borders. Sadly, we didn’t make it to the golden triangle. I think another trip to Chiang Rai is in the cards. We had heard that this city was sort of a smaller version of Chiang Mai (which we love). Plus, our wonderful friend Jessie from the CIEE program is teaching just outside the city. Who wouldn’t want to visit!?!
After a 4.5 hour bus ride, Erin and I arrived in the city, grabbed lunch, and took a TukTuk to Princess Chulaporn School, ‘Rong Rian Chulaporn,’ school for robots, to meet up with Jessie. Her school really couldn’t be any more different from good ol’ Hang Chat Wittaya. At Hang Chat, students don’t pay attention and have quite an aversion to speaking and learning English. At Chulaporn, students read and discuss racial issues in Huckleberry Finn (in English!) At Hang Chat, students motorbike off campus asap, and skip class whenever possible (when the Farangs are teaching). At Chulaporn, students live on campus, and are almost NEVER allowed to leave. In fact, when our TukTuk dropped us at the main gate, three handsome young students came right over to us and said in perfect English, “Excuse me, can I help you?” Yes, you can help me. Clone yourselves and come join my classes at Hang Chat Wittaya.
We were quickly introduced to Alison, Jessie’s lovely roommate who is in Thailand through the Fulbright Program, teaching these little Thai Einsteins, Thai-steins. After we dropped our bags at their jungle house, we rode into the city for some shopping and eating. The market is open every night and offers tons of clothes, crafts, jewelry, chotchkies, etc. I bought some ‘play-pants’ which are actually Thai ‘fisherman’s pants.” I call them play-pants because the students wear them on any fun days at school (when they can be out of uniform). They are actually pretty ugly and VERY Thai, but probably the most comfortable things ever. Erin bought LOTS of jewelry, and got scolded at by a merchant for not trying to barter. Stupid farangs. After shopping, we sat in the open food court area listened to music, chatted over a beer tower, and ate lots of tempura fried food. AROY MA! We’re talking fried carrots, fried broccoli, fried green beans. Heaven. Then we venture to "TeePee Bar." Another story for another day. Too much for one post.
The next day we set out for our trek, which was organized by the Hill Tribe Museum (thanks to Jessie and Alison for a great find!) The Hill Tribes are a group of native people who live in the mountains, and are really removed from the rest of Thai society (generally speaking). They are not able to become Thai citizens until they are 15 years old, prior to that, they have a “Hill Tribe Card” that gives them access to certain things. In the past they were sort of on the fringes of society, but apparently the current king has done a lot of work to better their conditions and opportunities. We were led by our guide Pooh, who basically didn’t want to be there (we think,) but there were no other available guides. But Pooh was awesome and we were lucky to have her! In our group we had John, from England, and Walter and Witska, a dating couple from the Netherlands. I think John was frightened by how loud our voices were and how much we liked to videotape things. Walter and Witska were just very large and blonde.
The trip is best explained through pictures and this handy video I made, but here are some highlights:
Boating down the Mekhong River . . .gorgeous scenic views!
Elephant trekking . . .Yes that’s right. We rode on elephants yet again! I’m becoming more comfortable on an elephant than in a car! Also, I was on an elephant with Jessie and our mahout basically forced her to ride on the neck for two reasons (we think). 1. So that he could get a good grasp on her behind when he pushed her up there. 2. So that he could go on an elephant riding first date with me, during which he liked to touch my knee (but then would get nervous and take his hand off). Also during our elephant trek, our mahout and Walter and Witska’s mahout made an interesting sort of discovery. They found something on the ground then started laughing and counting it. I think drugs. Not sure.
Hiking . . .Holy Toledo, I will never be a hiker. But I tried my best, and that’s all that matters (that’s what I tell the students, after all). On the second day, it was a pretty grueling uphill hike for a good 45 minutes. It was a near death experience, I’d say, and I had to force the group to take a couple of extra breaks at my expense. Holy lung capacity. Plus I’m clumsy to begin with. I trip over things in my bedroom. Throw in some roots, thorns, rocks, and a narrow mountain path and you’ve got yourself a train wreck. As Erin said, “I can’t walk behind you because with each step, I feel like I’m watching your death.” But in the words of the old civil rights activists, “We Shall Overcome.” Our trek leader was an elderly Akha man who wore flip flops (on the first day, at least) and carried bags of bread and food in his hands. He carved us some awesome bamboo walking sticks. He was never out of breath and never broke a sweat. He’s probably been hiking that path since the womb.
Akha Village . . . Really amazing! They had some electricity (on porches and in bathrooms, not in bedrooms,) but it was still a very primitive village of about 200 people. Most villagers can’t even speak or understand Thai, and only speak their Akha language. The older women in traditional gear loved selling their wares. Those hats can weigh up to 8 pounds! Some of the most interesting customs include the fact that the women and men live separately, and the men can have multiple wives (maybe 5?) Also, twins and flowers are taboo subjects (we read that on the sign, not so sure of the reasoning on the flowers). I bought a bracelet and got a free blessing with it, hopefully not for a baby like Witska got. We had some delicious food cooked by Pooh and some of the village women, green curry chicken and Thai spaghetti sauce with pork over rice, and the freshest pineapple I’ve ever eaten! We even got to take part in an Akha Welcome Dance around the fire, joining hands and dancing (Walter was not a fan, and Erin struggled to keep him in line). We ‘slept’ in the village overnight, as much as we could with crowing roosters inches from our heads, before finishing our hike on Sunday.
Overall, a once-in-a-lifetime weekend, worth the near –death hike. I felt like I had jumped inside my Cultural Geography textbook. Great stories for the grandkids. Enjoy the video!
Pai this weekend :)
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